Paris Spring/Summer 2013 Accessories

Some New and Interesting Accessories collections spotted at the latest edition of Première Classe show in Paris….

ZORYA – An exciting collection of Jewelry from the Czech Republic, in particular their massive “rope” necklace with crystallized incrustations, called VIRUS…www.zorya.eu 

TATTY DEVINE – This UK Jewelry designer was flush with Hot Neon Plastic Fantastic…www.tattydevine.com

NATHALIE COSTES – Unconventional French jewelry, especially notable for her crochet collars, delicate and beautiful…www.bynathaliecostes.com

KENJIIKEDA – Bags from this Japanese designer are unique, intricately cut and interwoven leatherworks of Art…www.kenjiikeda.jp 

ZOE LEE – More UK inventiveness, this time in Shoes, with a super-focused collection that hit the spot colorwise, with an incredible, Iridescent Cornflower Blue theme throughout…www.zoelee.co.uk

….More to come, so Stay Tuned!

The Art of Jewelry for Bold Women: Elena Canter

Jeweler/Artist Elena Canter

At the most recent session of the Première Classe accessories show in Paris, I discovered a most exquisite jewelry artist and sculptor, ELENA CANTER.  This Spanish designer’s creations left such a strong impression that I had to know more…Fortunately, Elena graciously agreed to an interview, so we could all get to know more about her vision and creative process:

- I have seen your latest lookbook, and my impression is one of a Strong, “Amazon” Woman, who is not afraid to speak boldly through her jewelry and who might be a fan of “Industrial” aesthetics and “Minimalist” fashion, as it might exist today. How would you characterize the “Elena Canter” Woman?

- Elena Canter woman is a woman of her time, lover of the past times but also interested about the future. She is passionate about her job; a mother, always studying, investigating and discovering Jewels are a language for me, a way of expression, a feeling or a thought drawn in metals.

“Masu” Necklace, Elena Canter

- I have read that you are indeed a product of industrial-era Bilbao, along with other, “softer” Spanish and global influences. Artistically, how do you reconcile the hard and soft influences on your work?
I usually like combining different elements which influence all my work: the urban aesthetics and its crossbreeding between the future and the past, which has been the greatest influence in my last works. The silent beauty of deserted buildings in contrast with the skyscrapers’ polished lines and avant-garde architecture. Also industrial landscapes: cranes and smokestacks, oxidized by salty air. Besides, wrought-iron works from rural architecture. Some folklore elements such as ornamental buttons and lace; geometric sets from the Art-Decó style; period clothing; comics…Sculptors such as Chillida and Oteiza; painters such as Picasso, Miró and artists such as Serra, Calder or Brancusi among others. All these influences are present in most of my works.
- As we are in a difficult period for Europeans and for the world economically and socially, what role do you see your art playing in Spain and in the world in this context?
Nowadays, in hard times, my creations are more pure, more naked. They reflect the sensitivity of the time that we have to live. I am not really sure what will be the situation of my work in the future, in Spain or worldwide, but I will keep on working with the same strength and hope.

- Do you see your jewelry work as “fashion” in 2012 and going forward? Where do you see fashion as art or, art as fashion, going from here?

I always try to make my jewels contemporary but also timeless, not tied to any fashion concept. I have chosen an aesthetic road to which I am devoted, a style of my own. I want my work to have a meaning, personality and strength, regardless of time.
- Muchisimas Gracias, Señora Canter!
Thank you very much, Allegra!

You will find a sample of Elena’s gorgeous collections below, but for a Full Overview or to purchase her creations, please visit…

www.elenacanter.com

www.shop-elenacanter.com

www.facebook.com/elenacanter

To California, Love, From Paris

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Dear California,

I’ve wanted to write you for a long time.  I miss you terribly, you see, when Paris grey takes over, or even when the sun comes out and air is fresh, like now.

The problem is that here, there is no algal freshness of the ocean, there are no crashing waves, no Green Flash either.  As much as I love history in the paving stones, I sometimes long for sunset bonfires, tide pools, and the grit of sand…

I miss you, Skaters!  Won’t you bring your freedom here?

O Sunrise Surfers, first, the waves, then school…You had it right!

For some, it’s fashion, rad today, back again in twenty years or so, but not for me…This heart will always hold the long-haired boys, the low-cloud mornings, red tide seasons…An endless love affair with my own Endless Summer…

My California Symphony:

Start with a little of this..

.

Then, try the antidote…

Add a dash of…

And don’t forget…

 

Pure California Love!

Paris Accessories Trends for Fall/Winter 2012-13

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending the Première Classe and Paris Sur Mode shows here in Paris, and found Two Principal Directions in Accessories, along with several Micro-Trends to Watch…

Principal Directions

- Pieces With Personal Meaning

A multitude of items, particularly in bags and jewelry, were noticeably designed to communicate personal convictions, beliefs and multicultural interests.  It makes sense that, in an economic environment in which even affluent consumers reflect before buying, a piece that can make an emotional, private connection with its owner would be highly valued over the ‘fun’ purchases of yesteryear.

In this category, I saw pieces that reflected a sense of Artisanship and Heritage, such as in the handmade Alpine boots from rosa mosa or the Pyrrha line of jewelry cast “from authentic 19th century wax seals”, with “meaning culled from family heraldry”.

I would also include in this group a plethora of Folkloric Influences that were apparent, particularly in oversized shoulder bags, such as an enormous, Mayan-motif carpet bag from Laurence Heller, or the brilliantly multi-hued, hot pink fringed bag from Elliot Mann.

Last, but not least, as part of this trend, I saw a significant emphasis on “Ethical” or “Authentic” Products, with Hand-Knits everywhere, comfortably-worn Western or biker boots and beaten-leather satchels or shoulder bags.  Notable here was Lost Property of London, whose bags made from recycled coffee bean sacks stood out as a bold choice for a Conscious Consumer.

Bag from Elliot Mann

 - “Space Age” Hard Metal

Every point must have its counterpoint, and for the softer, gentler world of Pieces With Personal Meaning, it is the tough, “colder” feel of Retro-Futurist “Space-Age” and Hard Metal accessories.

This trend, though not quite as prominent as its kinder predecessor, showed its teeth nevertheless, in metallic spikes on long cuff bracelets, seen at Philippe Audibert, or on a smaller scale at various designers in articulated metal finger “cuffs” with scrolls or spikes.  In shoes, this look popped up here and there in the form of metal studs.

The ‘cold’ edge of accessory design for the season also showed up in the form of “Space Age” looks, often highly structured and geometric, in silver metal (of course) and in colorful plastics.  Two examples that stood out for me : Elena Canter from Spain, who showed a certain”Princess Leia” flair, with unusual metal headpieces, and House of Flora from the UK, who stood out from the pack with their clean, geometric, futuristic plastic eyewear, headpieces and such.

- Other Trends to Watch

* COLOR, the Brighter the Better: Though the Number One hue was undoubtedly Emergency Vest Orange, as marvelously exemplified in Tracey Neuls footwear, other tones stood out and shouted for attention…Peacock Blue and Fresh Grass Green, in particular, which were found in a fabulously unusual mix in Simona Vanth shoes.

Fabulous Color from Simona Vanth

*Art Deco Influence: In sinuously-curved wedge heels and felt cloche hats

* Girls Will Be Boys: Traditional men’s shoe styles made for women, particularly brogues and biker boots

* Also, a fair bit of both Python and Fingerless Gloves (not to be combined!)

Voilà!  You are now officially ‘caught up’ on the latest accessories trends!

 

For more trend vision, or simply excellent copywriting to boost your business, in English or en français, contact me today at info@pariswriter.com or allegrac@gmail.com

Exhibit Review – Musée du Quai Branly, Paris

« EXHIBITIONS », L’INVENTION DU SAUVAGE

Musée du Quai Branly, Paris

Do you consider yourself “civilized”?  Do you secretly consider certain categories of persons   “superior” to others?  When you hear the phrase “Buffalo Bill and his Wild West Show”, do you feel warm nostalgia for a bygone era?  Perhaps it is time you visited “EXHIBITIONS: L’Invention du Sauvage”, running at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris through June 2012.  I promise, you will be in for a much-needed shock.

This broad, deep and disturbing voyage through several centuries of ‘humans as entertainment’ begins with the original “clash of civilizations”, when Europeans first had greater contact with other cultures, during the Age of Exploration.  White European explorers found and took samples of, some most ‘curious’ creatures from this New World, including human beings, which, along with flora and fauna, began to fill the “cabinets of curiosities” of the nobility.  Thus began the era of the Noble Savage, seen as a Man, yes, but a marvelously odd one, at that, a first step, as this exhibit deftly points out, in the de-humanization of men and women from different, distant cultures and with non-white skin tones, or the “Others”, as they are referred to throughout the display.

Paraded before Kings, then Lords, these “Others” were soon brought before a larger audience, by popular demand, prepared by the advent of publicity in broadsheets, newspapers, and eventually, on advertising posters, which abound in “EXHIBITIONS”, and which serve to reveal both the broad-based appeal which human displays had for a Westernized audience during the 18th through the 20th centuries, as well as the truly exploitative and sensationalistic nature of this popular form of divertissement.

As the Enlightenment gave way to the reign of Science in the 19th century, the view of the “Other” as a fascinating being of child-like innocence began to turn to a view of the ‘Savage’ as a creature that must be measured, studied, even taken apart to be understood by Westerners.  The curators of this show take us through the use of ‘phrenology’ as an example of how pseudo-science served to distance and then, objectify human beings who came from afar.  A broader nose, a head of another shape, and women with wider hips and thighs, were all vaunted as irrefutable ‘proof’ that physical and cultural difference were equivalent to physical, cultural and even moral inferiority.  After all, as human exhibits of the time advertised, “Seeing is Believing”, and how could the measurements of Science be wrong?

‘EXHIBITIONS’ gradually and comprehensively reveals to us, through visual imagery, sound samples and three-dimensional objects, how curiosity about other cultures and persons who do not look like ‘us’ can transform into a feeling of separateness and then aversion, which allows easily for the ‘use’ of humans as objects of derisive amusement and, in the case of women, as objects of sexual titillation.

I have a confession to make:  ‘Exhibitions’ shook me to the core.  I cannot remember the last time I left an exhibit feeling such revulsion and sadness.  Yet, I am gratified to have experienced this show.  It led me to ask myself essential questions we should all be asking: “Do I judge Others who are different from me without knowing them?  How do I feel when I stand by and watch humans exploit humans?”, and, perhaps most importantly for the future of humanity, “Who do I become when I label fellow human beings as ‘Others’ or ‘Those People’?”  In a time of such economic and social turmoil as we are currently experiencing, the ‘EXHIBITIONS’ show is more than relevant.  It is essential viewing, so that we can ponder the truly disturbing foundations of the ‘Us’ and ‘Them’ mentality, before we cede to the temptation of making scapegoats of ‘Others’.

Trend Review – Paris, Spring/Summer 2012

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Trends in Accessories and
Women’s RTW from

PREMIERE CLASSE & PARIS SUR MODE
Trade Shows – October 2011

Paris, October 2011 –

Photo credit: Première Classe

Recession.  The word is everywhere, and the world of fashion is no exception.  It was no surprise, then, that even the designers at trade shows taking place during Paris Fashion Week both reflected and made bold attempts to defy an uncertain, nervous global mood.

Though overall attendance numbers at the crucial PREMIERE CLASSE accessories show were down over 2010, big international buyers were still trawling the aisles, searching out THE bag, shoe or bauble that would give their shops the edge with the cutting-edge, luxury consumer.  Once again, the high-end segment of the market was the focus, because, as show director Sylvie Pourrat explained, “…visitors come to PREMIERE CLASSE to find special favorite products…and our role is to maintain a logical selection process while introducing them to unexpected and unusual products.”

The key to survival in this market is, therefore, more than ever, creative fervor and boldness, best seen for Spring/Summer 2012 in BRIGHT COLOR , TEXTURES OF NATURE and the COMFORT of NOSTALGIA.  The worn softness of vintage clothing and bright tones of decades past could bring back memories of happier times, whilst protective items and solace from nature could provide extra reassurance in a turbulent age…

Photo credit: Première Classe

MAJOR TRENDS SEEN AT PREMIERE CLASSE AND PARIS SUR MODE…

ORGANICALLY YOURS

  • Patterns from the natural world sprouted everywhere…hives, cobwebs, watery drips…
  • The calm of texture – Aged, soft leather and thick wood were prevalent in bags and shoes.
  • In colors – Vegetal green was recurrent, and powdery, flesh tones were common.

LIFE AND DEATH

  • In troubled times, a search for meaning makes sense, even on the fickle fashion planet.  Everyone looks for some type of protection from the vicissitudes of globalized living.  Every bit helps, even in the form of “good luck” charms that might carry a very personalized message.
  • The Supernatural and Otherworldly are omnipresent, with skulls in unexpected places (such as on umbrella handles), amulets all over, and a profusion of “protective”, sentimental jewelry.  A Darker, Gothic influence seeps in, with cobwebs and a voodoo feeling. The reassurance of spiritual protection rubs up against a realization that there are Dark Forces at work.

A Counter to the sinister sentiment arrives in the form of nostalgia for what seemed like a happier, more carefree period – the 1970’s.  Two influences inspired by that decade were seen on show…

DON’T WORRY, BE HAPPY

  • Elton John plays his magical piano, wearing his trademark, massive glasses.  Such “shades” were notable at the show, in a kaleidoscope of fantastic plastic.

    Photo credit: Première Classe

  • Glam Rock was alive and kicking as well, with patent shine, platforms galore and electric color vibrant.  This color trend extended its retro reach all the way into the early 1980’s, with Neon Brights in almost every stand at the shows and Rainbows showing up here and there.
  • The essential Punk influence of the ‘70’s and ‘80’s also made an appearance, with studs on bags and shoes, though reinterpreted and softened for today, shaped like stars and not always in metal.

TAKE IT EASY

Photo credit: Première Classe

  • Another ‘70’s tribute, in keeping with the evocative reassurance trend, could be seen in an Easy-Shape, Hippie Nomad mood.  In terms of Shapes, caftans and halter necks abounded, as did almost Ukrainian-style, embroidered peasant blouses.
  • In Accessories, the free and easy woman reflected in this story wears wooden sandals or espadrille-inspired footwear, all on a high platform, of course.  She drapes herself in long dresses and multi-layered scarves in washed-out earth tones, as though they had been worn on a long desert trek.  She carries a well-worn, softened leather satchel.

For more on Key Directional Colors and Specific Collections of particular interest, contact Allegra at info@pariswriter.com